Please note: All our kits will be sold via The Curious Electric Company from now on. This page is for information only. Please visit our shop to see our current range of kits or contact us to discuss your project and how we might be able to help.
Lots of the kits sold here require a programming cable to program the ATMEGA328 micrcontroller.
These kits use a bare microcontroller and do not incorporate a USB-Serial IC on them (unlike the actual Arduino UNO and others).
This reduces the cost of the circuit as, once the project is complete, you do not need to reprogram the IC and having the USB-serial IC is a waste.
Here are some reprogramming cables which work with our kits.
They are available for £9 (including P&P within the UK)
THIS PRODUCT IS RETIRED
This post is for INFORMATION ONLY
Edit 28/10/14: I’ve been caught out by FTDIgate. These have fake FTDI ICs on them, hence the low cost. I did not realise this when ordering them FTDI drivers have bricked some of these fake ones with the latest Windows drivers (Linux users are unaffected). This is a bad move from FTDI, as it affects the end user, rather than those selling the fake FTDI units (mine came from a Chinese suppler). I will not use FTDI ICs in my designs. More information is here:
We supply a number of kits which require programming using a 6-way USB-Serial programming lead. This must include the DTR pin which is used to reset the microcontroller.
Here is a low-cost programming cable which can be used with all of our Arduino based kits.
The kit contains the USB-Serial converter board (pre-built), a USB-A to USB-mini lead (to connect to your programming computer) and two 6-way header sockets:
Buy one here:
A programming cable is available here for £9 (including P&P within the UK):
The output pin are clearly marker on the back as:
There is a solder bridge to change from 5V operation to 3.3V operation (no change needed to re-program our kits).
You may need to download the drivers for this device, which are available on the FTDI website.
The header sockets are provided to build a converter from the ‘male’ output pins to a ‘female’ socket, which might be required. Put the sockets back to back and solder together, as shown here: